Pre/Post Cruising Checklists
As there is no user/owners manual for a Hampton Safari hopefully these notes will give you a useful list of things/controls to locate and good habits to adopt........even experienced owners (myself included) have forgotten the odd point from time to time (e.g forgetting to turn on the main sea cock for raw water cooling!) while distracted by other things...
Before Leaving Home:
1: Do check that you have your boat keys, wallet, phone and anything that you need while away - it's very frustrating to arrive at your mooring to find that you can't even get aboard! (Yes - we've been there!)
2: Put the cat out (...we personally have no cats/pets....but you never know....)
3: Pick/Fill up some 5L bottles of water for drinking on board (or refill used ones at home). We use around 5L per day, so generally have around 5 x 5L bottles on board at any time for a 1 week cruise (assuming we refill them). Bottled water tastes/smells nicer than (treated/filtered) water from the boat tank, which is fine for washing, washing up etc, but not so nice for drinking (boiled or otherwise)...
Pre Cruise Checklist - Exterior
1: Fill the fresh water tank from a hose...not all BA moorings have water taps...
2: Check all gas appliances are switched off (from your last visit) - Assuming that you adopt this guide as a habit all appliances should already be turned off.
4: Put out your boat club burgee (- it's a good wind direction indicator for mooring if mounted at the bow)...
5: Check the fuel level in the fuel tank - the standard Hampton Safari fuel gauge is just a wooden stick, long enough to reach the bottom of the tank, with plain marks/lines at regular intervals!).
6: There's generally no toilet tank guage, (and we don't recommend reusing the fuel "guage"). Just use your memory to keep track of when it was last emptied and (days) usage since then - you will develop your own rule of thumb as to how often you need a pump out. If in doubt, you can always lift the rear cabin bed/mattress and tap on the tank to see how full it sounds....
7: Put out your mooring lines for cruising - ideally long (20-25ft) ones, 1 at the bow and 1 at each stern cleat, plus other shorter lines for side on/stern on mooring while out. (Fenders and Ropes in Hints and Tips)
8: Put your mud weight and it's associated line out on deck ready for use (whether planned or otherwise). It's useful to put the end loop around the bow cleat at this point, rather then remembering to do it after launching the mud weight!
9: Make sure your throwing line/life ring/boarding ladder are ready for use in case you need them!
10: Ensure that mops, brooms, boat hooks etc are secured (using bungee cords) and out of the way (e.g on the roof or in the fore/aft well where you won't trip over them.)
11: Check that your Rhond anchors/mooring spikes and hammer/mallet are where you expect them to be stored (e.g in the gas locker), and are at hand in case you need them (- probably only on rare occasions).
The "Grease Monkeys" Checklist
1: If you have been away from the boat for a while, check the battery condition (a simple multi meter voltage test, and/or check green indicator on battery). If any battery is less than 75-80% charged consider (mains) charging it fully, prior to departure.
2: Switch the battery selector switch to one of position 1, 2 or Both as required (Battery Selector Switch) - usually position 1 (starter battery only). WARNING: If you subsequently change the switch position NEVER switch through the 0 or OFF position with the engine running.
3: Check the level of water in the bilge (via the hatch in the galley floor) for normal expected level.
4: Check the bilge pump is working by manually selecting the bilge pump switch (usually marked on dashboard) and check that water is drained.
5: Check engine oil level (using dipstick) and top up if/as required.
6: Check engine's closed water cooling system coolant level - undo the (car radiator style) pressure cap on the heat exchanger tank and check the level while COLD. The coolant level should be about half way between the top of water channel and the bottom of the radiator cap housing. (If it doubt gently "measure" it with a blunt object e.g screwdriver handle). Add pre-mixed antifreeze solution if/as required (- only top up with plain water, in an emergency).
7: DO NOT overfill the heat exchanger tank (i.e fill it completely) as the contents will EXPAND when the engine gets up to running temperature (and if over filled, some of the contents will overflow, probably over the engine & into the engine bay....).
8: Warning: DO NOT do this check WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT, without first gradually releasing the pressure, as you would on a car, (- ideally with your hand protected by a glove or cloth).
9: While your head's in the engine bay, do a visual check on rubber hoses for condition & signs of leaks, and fan belts for condition (no obvious wear or fraying) and correct tension (neither too slack or too tight). Check around under the engine for any signs of oil drips/leaks or other fluid (coolant) leaks from last time out (spillage mats come into their own for soaking them up and helping to identify where drips or leaks have come from)...
10: If you adopt these checklists, then the weed filter (check in the next step) will have been checked/emptied before leaving last time, but there's no harm in checking anyway...(and it's cheaper than finding you forgot to do it after the event. Running with a blocked weed filter = engine overheating and a new impeller blades!).
11: With the main sea cock in CLOSED position, undo the screw cap on the weed filter and check that the filter is weed free. Remove weed as necessary, carefully replace filter and screw cap ensuring any rubber seals are positioned correctly & not trapped/squashed.
12: Open on the main sea cock valve, checking for any obvious leaks around the filter cap or from hoses. DO NOT forget this very important step, else your engine will quickly overheat, and the impellor pump will need a new set of rubber blades!
13: Check the fuel cut off (usually under floor near engine) is in the ON position and that the engine throttle kill cable is pushed home (or the engine will not start!).
At last....it's time to "Shove Off"!
9: Remove and ensure that any loose cups, kettles, odds and ends that rattle, or may wobble off surfaces, are secured/stowed away.
10: Set the Morse control lever into Neutral position with gears disengaged (by engaging/disengaging) the gear button.
11: Insert the ignition key and switch to warm up setting. Hold for 30 secs to heat the diesel glow plugs.
12: Push the Morse lever forward still in neutral to a slightly positive throttle position. Start the engine on the key.
13: Allow the engine to warm up by running the engine for a few minutes on fast idle and then throttle back to idle once the engine can run on a tickover/idle throttle setting (control in neutral (midway) and gears in neutral). Engage the gearbox (engage/release the button) when ready while idling.
14: Depending on wind and tide conditions discuss your expected plan for leaving the mooring (forward or reverse out into wind and tide) and which lines to let go first.
15: Get your able/willing crew to release mooring ropes in the planned order placing them coiled neatly on deck as directed by you (the pilot).
16: Check the boat is behaving as planned/expected throughout. Stop and make fast if it's not behaving as expected and rethink your exit.
17: If all goes well, Crew will hold onto the last rope and carry it on board with them after pushing off/away from the quay heading.
18: As Captain - check you haven't left any crew behind!
End Of Cruise Checklist
Follow this checklist when you've returned to your home mooring and are leaving your Safari until next time...
1: Assuming the boat has just been docked and is safely tied up...
2: Shut off the engine using the kill switch/cable. Turn off ignition. Leave Morse control in Neutral and drive gear disengaged.
3: Shut off (CLOSE) the main sea cock. Carefully remove the screw cap from the weed filter, remove the filter and clean out any weed. Replace the filter tube and carefully replace the screw cap ensuring seals are correctly placed and not trapped/squashed.
4: Turn on (OPEN) main sea cock to ensure no leaks around the filter etc (- do it now in case you forget to check before leaving next time!). CLOSE the main sea cock.
5: Switch off the batteries by turning the battery selector switch to O or OFF position. Manually check that the bilge pump is operating.
6: Visually check engine bay base/sump area for any oil or other fluid leaks (easy to spot if using oil spillage mats). Investigate as required.
7: Ensure that the fridge is empty, defrosted and wiped clean/dry. Leave the fridge door ajar to prevent mould. (Wedge open with a tea towel if needed to prevent accidental closure while brushing past).
8: Close and secure sliding canopy, doors (except exit!) and windows.
9: Optionally switch off fuel tap (under floor near engine) and/or the sea cock for raw water toilet flush.
10: TURN OFF gas taps for each appliance. Turn OFF GAS Supply at Regulator and remove regulator from Gas Bottle in gas locker.
11: Check level in Fuel Tank - Note reading and determine whether to bring diesel for topping up on next outing, or plan a refuelling stop on future trip as necessary...
12: Make a note of days out since last pump out...
13: Stow/put away any unused mooring lines, mud weight, burgees, Red Ensigns etc.
14: Attach and roll down your pulpit/push pit covers as required, and lock the back door on leaving...